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STUFF

  • NARS Fall 2008
    This collection is all about shimmering neutrals with hints of gold -- absolutely lovely. I wanted everything but practiced unusual restraint (for now, that is).

    Cordura

    I picked up the Cordura eye shadow duo (shimmering warm brown and sooty dark brown)Senoritaas well as the Fez single shadow, which truly looks like delicious, velvety cocoa. The Senorita lipstick is described as a "sheer shimmering cherry blossom" and is a warm nude-pink, just a touch of color on my lips. These are colors that are going straight to my kit due to their gorgeous versatility. Another classic NARS collection here.
  • Shimera Seamless Boyshorts

    Shimera

    I know boys have their thong fanta- sies, but I stored all of mine at the bottom of my drawers when I discovered boyshorts a long time ago. They are extremely comfortable, invisible when it counts, and come in different heights so you can wear them under just about everything. I'm always on the hunt for the best -- and this style is a great basic. Not too high nor low and so soft that you don't know you're wearing them. They're a steal right now during the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale. I'm going to go back and stock up on more before they practically double in price.
  • J.Crew

    Jcrew

    I fre- quently shopped at J. Crew until I didn't, and then I did again. I love their chinos and cashmere, not so much their flipflops (they're just...OK). I love their catalog more than their stores (I just don't find their associates particularly helpful and things always seem to be in disarray). And I usually find something I love in J. Crew Collection. This is probably what GAP's Banana Republic should be -- but isn't. And if they keep having a strong point of view, I won't disappear again.
  • Schick Quattro for Women

    Schick

    Known fact: I'm clumsy, really clumsy. I trip over my own feet and drop things. So can you imagine me wielding a sharp razor? Scary, for sure. But many years ago I discovered that Schick started making their popular Quattro (four blades, get it?) for women, too -- and so I quickly got my very own. True fact: I've never cut or nicked myself since. Maybe I've just become more careful, but I suspect this product was designed for klutzes like me.
  • Giovanni Cool Mint Lemonade Salt Scrub
    GiovanniI haven't been this excited in the shower lately -- if they ever discontinued this product I'd be banging on Giovanni's doors all day long. What's not to love? All my favorite scents combined -- essential oils of spearmint, peppermint, lemongrass, and grapefruit. Real crushed mint leaves. All blended in a salt scrub that both exfoliates and moisturizes then leaves a clean, tingly feeling. The best part is it's available in your local drugstore. I'm stocking up on this for the summer.
  • J Brand Jeans - The Doll

    Jbrand

    J Brand has been a stylist's favorite for a few years now, and their "Love Story" style has been flying off the shelves. I, however, am in love with "The Doll" instead. High-waisted, bell-bottomed, and made of a four-way stretch denim fabric, these are hella sexy and just a bit retro. Their website describes them as the "ball gown of denim." Worn with a pair of high heels, they sure are.
  • Einstein Lip Therapy Cooling Relief

    Einstein

    If I never threw away anything, I'd have a vast graveyard of rejected lipbalms. I'm just picky that way. Sometimes I like the scent but hate the feel, other times it's the other way around. But this I love. It goes on really smooth, without any kind of waxy feel. Its mint-vanilla scent comforts me, and the long-lasting tingly sensation will be most welcome when summer gets here. Enriched with cocoa butter, vitamins A and E, it's also good for the lips. What's not to love? I'm seriously addicted to the stuff.
  • Giorgio Armani Face Fabric

    Gaff

    When summer arrives, I switch to a tinted moisturizer for everyday wear automatically. For years I've been reaching for Laura Mercier's. This year; however, I'm giving the old standby a break. Armani Beauty recently launched its version, Face Fabric, and I stopped by the counter to see if I love it as much as I do the other Armani foundations. Well...I do, I do! It goes on airy and really smooth. As soon as it touches your face, your skin takes on a velvety, airbrushed appearance. It was 90+ degrees in my neck of the woods today, and this stood up to the heat beautifully. Plus: the SPF 12 adds a wee bit of protection.
  • Treesje "Avery"

    Treesje

    The photo doesn't do this bag justice (how many photos do that for us, after all?). I'm not sure why I've been coveting handbags lately -- it's just not me to do so. But I spotted this from about 20 feet away: it shimmered and danced for me. When I got up close, I fell in love. Oh, save me. Still, I suppose if I have to fall anyway, it might as well be into "Avery's" clutches. And we'd dance the whole day long.
  • Katherine Kwei Bags

    Kweibag

    I saw Kwei's "Donna" in lambskin this afternoon. I had to pull myself away, though I kept coming back. I couldn't help myself; I stroked her soft skin repeatedly and breathed in her heady, earthy scent. I wished she were mine. Someday, soon perhaps, she will be.
  • NARS Summer 2008
    It's no secret, certainly no surprise. Just scroll down and it's evident how much I love NARS. I purchased the bulk of this season's "Exotica" collection and they're my new favorites; however, two in particular will always be in my travel makeup traincase.

    Galapagos_cc

    Galapagos single eyeshadow is a bitter chocolate infused with gold; I plan to use it every day -- either as a liner or to do a gorgeous smoky eye. Supervixen lip glossSupervixen_cc is not as nude as pictured; it's more of a nude-ish mauve drenched in subtle gold shimmer. There is no blush to crave this time, but with so many edgy, sexy neutrals to love (with a few punches of color to further spice things up), you won't be complaining for sure.
  • Marc Jacobs Splash - Pear

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    I swear I tried to stay away. But I just couldn't resist, it's lure was simply too enticing, too tempting. To alleviate a bit of my guilt, I've been wearing this every day. From its first crisp burst to the lovely barely-there drydown I'm smitten. Top notes: ripe pear, bergamot, lemon zest. Middle: juniper, gin accord, freesia. Bottom: musk, teakwood, amber. Add them all together = Yummy.
  • Subversive® for Target®

    Subversive_look_5

    I'm still kicking myself for thinking twice about getting this killer Subversive® (by Justin Giunta) bracelet on the now-defunct online shopping site Girlshop many years ago, when his prices were so much more reasonable (a couple of hundred bucks Vs. a couple of thousands now). So when I found out that Giunta was producing a limited-edition collection for Target, I instantly jumped on it. I can never get that bracelet again (I still dream of it), but I won't dilly-dally this time. Hopefully when the package comes I'll be just as excited as I am now just thinking about it.
  • Stella McCartney for LeSportsac

    Stellamccbags

    I've been waiting for this line to come out forever and now it's here, available for preorder! I want one of everything and in nearly every color. LeSportsac carried all my stuff (and you know I got STUFF!) when I was still a student and now, thanks to Stella, it will do the same for me at work and for travel. This Spring/Summer 2008 line is her first limited-edition collection for the company and I can't wait for future ones to come.
  • Kevyn Aucoin The Sensual Skin Enhancer

    Kevynaucoinsse

    I haven't been without this product for years, ever since I discovered it at a makeup counter during a trip to Chicago. I didn't really know what to make of it at first -- but only because there's so much you can do with this. Mixed with moisturizer it's a terrific tinted moisturizer; applied (sparingly) with a damp sponge it's a transfer-resistant foundation with lots of coverage. I love to use it, however, as a concealer -- it's the only thing that completely hides the little imperfections (broken capillaries, spots, redness) in my face. I apply a tiny bit with a brush and then dab at it softly with a finger. Voila! This stuff is genius -- just as Aucoin himself was. We lost him way too soon.
  • Bobbi Brown Nude Lip & Eye Palette

    Bbnude

    Bobbi Brown's got me wrapped around her gloss- covered finger. I don't know how she does it, but she manages to create products that I MUST have season after season. I just received this on my doorstep today and it's gone straight to my makeup bag. Great for traveling (especially when you don't have time to fuss with getting ready in the morning), these colors are simply foolproof -- and pretty. There are four shades each for lips and eyes. Lips: Bare, Beige, Brownie Pink, and Cocoa. Eyes: Bare, Naked, Buff Shimmer, and Nude Shimmer. Includes two mini-brushes for eyes and lips.
  • Clairol Nice 'n Easy ColorSeal™

    Color_seal_gloss

    It's been a while since I've dared to color my own hair, but I still remember those little sachets of fabulous conditioner that came in Clairol's haircolor kits. I used to think: why don't they sell this separately? And now they have. Once a week I condition my color-treated hair with this and the effects are immediate. My mane feels instantly smooth and soft and looks shiny. And better yet, a tube costs less than five bucks.
  • Anthropologie Oxford Wedges

    Anthrowedge

    These are the shoes I could wear practically all Spring. Neutral and classic but not the least bit boring, with a comfortable 3.5" gracefully curved wood wedge heel that lengthens my legs. Anthropologie has always been my go-to source for quirky shoes with personality galore -- and this season I could happily live with each new pair.
  • Essie Nailpolish: Steel-ing the Scene
    SteelingthesceneWith the near-daily abuse my nails get, I needed to take action so I wouldn't have to hide my hands any longer. Time for a manicure! But all the pretty colors I normally veer towards just seemed too girly. No -- I wanted something tough but beautiful. And this is it, my perfect color. Essie's Steel-ing the Scene is a gorgeous warm pewter, with the slightest glimmer of gold. Navy might be the hue du jour, but I'm thanking the genius who concocted my new favorite shade.
  • Dr. Martens LE Yohji Yamamoto 10-Eye Boot
    YydocsThe Doc Martens mania came and went sometime in the late 90s (I knew it had hit its zenith when my local Nordstrom set up a huge display, which was quickly ripped apart by furious shoppers -- the same way they did after Oprah declared those ugly Uggs boots as one of her favorite things a few years ago). Since last year I've been jonesing for a pair of Docs boots -- and finally in December I had a valid work-related excuse for buying a pair. Now I wish I had an excuse for getting this. Love the lightweight cotton canvas, and the hidden zipper makes getting into and out of this beauty a breeze.
  • Juicy Couture Beach Bandeau Swimdress
    JuicyswimTo my friend Stacy I say, "I can't help it. I love me a cute swimdress!" And this one really is adorable, you've got to admit. Check out the silver metallic fibers, the allover ruching (quite slimming, actually) and even the bow at the ruffled hem. Detachable halter straps keep everything up and in place (and so does the shelf bra).
  • Bobbi Brown Black Raspberry Lip Sheer
    BblipsheerIf you're already a fan of Brown's "Black Plum" (or even of Clinique's cult classic "Black Honey"), you will love this new limited-edition shade, part of her Spring Pink Raspberry collection. Don't be afraid if the shade looks awfully bright in the online swatch. This is so sheer when worn that it looks almost natural but better -- as if you were kissing for hours. And who doesn't want to look like that?
  • Free People "Johnny" Boots
    JohnnybootsI love boots that look like they've already been places. This one fits the bill. The soft, distressed leather looks like I've had them forever and the straps hint of a bad girl lurking within. But wear this with a feminine top or dress and you can throw everyone off your trail.
  • Prada Contrast-Hood Jacket
    Bg1k96_anI love this to pieces -- you've got to see it up close to see all the clever details. This beige half-sleeved zip-up jacket has oh-so-feminine puffed sleeves, flapped pockets, and a scoop neckline. But the removable hood is true genius: red on the outside, orange on the inside.
  • NARS Greek Holiday Lip Gloss
    Greekholiday_ccDon't let the smoky dark promotional image for the NARS Spring 2008 line fool you: this collection is extremely fresh and wearable. There are lots here for me to love, but the standout item -- in my personal opinion -- is this gorgeous, ethereal lip gloss. Described as a "sparkling pink sand," it's actually closer to a golden peachy-pink. Lovely when worn with NARS bestselling cheek color Orgasm which now, finally, comes in Multiple form, too.
  • Pine IV Jeans
    5475_p_mediumSeems like there's a new brand of premium jeans being born every minute. And I still remember the day I gasped at the sight of $100 denim. (Now try $200. $500 even.) I'm not going to pay bucko bucks just to have some chi-chi brand name emblazoned on my ass -- but I will pay for terrific fit and fabric. I will pay for Pine IVs, for sure. This brand is a must-try for real women who aren't built like human hangers. The rise is modestly low (about four fingers below the belly button), fit is snug yet accommodating, fabric is high-end Japanese denim which doesn't bag out and has enough stretch to be comfortable. Their bestselling style is the Kyoto, a midrise jeans with flare legs, but I'm also loving the Suki, a not-so-skinny skinny jean. And while not exactly a green jean, for every pair purchased, Pine IV will plant a tree in partnership with America Forests.
  • Jemma Kidd Lasting Tint: Semi-Permanent, Waterproof Lash Color
    Nmc065t_mnI know, I know -- I keep saying that with all the fabulous drugstore mascara brands out there (let's talk about Maybelline's Full 'N Soft another time, shall we?), there's no reason to spend a wad of cash on a tube that you get to toss after only a few months. But I love THIS. OK, I admit I buckled down and purchased it only because of all the hype -- but I've got to say this does exactly what it claims. It darkens the lashes and stays put all day -- through long hours at work and even while my eyes are constantly watering due to an all-out allergy attack.
  • breadandbutter Cocoon Top
    BreadbutterThis has been my favorite top this Fall. So comfortable and flattering, with a scoop neck, bubble hem and cuffs. My favorite detail is the self-lining (almost like a sewn-in tank) which keeps everything smooth and modest on the outside. Two colors: black and nude (cream). This year-old casual clothing line is by Brazilian designer Daisy Linhares, whose aim is to create everyday wear that's stylish yet understated. Judging from her Fall collection, I can throw on pretty much anything of hers on and walk out the door without a second thought. If only everything else in my closet were as easy.
  • Nau Sequence Skirt
    NauNau is an outdoor clothing company that currently inspires and excites me. Here's its design philosophy: "The balancing of beauty, performance and sustainability drives everything we do, from developing better, more environmentally friendly fabrics to raising the bar for functional, elegant designs." In addition, 5% of all sales is given to one of their environmental, social or humanitarian partner groups -- and the customer gets to pick which one. Check out their website when you get a chance; in the meantime, I'll be playing with this jersey knit wrap skirt. Cute can have a conscience after all.
  • Stewart+Brown Button Around Cardigan
    StewartbrownStewart+Brown makes clothes we want to live in -- in more ways than one. Their casual designs and comfy fabrics are easily apparent, but what you don't see as immediately is their commitment to the environment. For instance, they use organic cotton (ie grown in soil that is free from pesticides, herbicides, and other toxins), as well as hemp and linen. And even when they use wool (mongolian cashmere and merino wool from free range sheep from the Southern Alps of New Zealand), their standards are stringent and committed to sustainability. So you can rest easy knowing all this while wearing clothes you can bet on wearing for a long time. This cardigan, for instance, would be a fixture in my wardrobe -- especially since it's a classic, though certainly not boring.

SUBSTANCE


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REAL BEAUTY

The last few couple of days I've been thinking about authenticity. Am I being true to myself, honest with myself? Because unless I can answer in the affirmative, then I'm not being real with anyone else either. My friend W and I were just discussing this last night: it's simply too easy to rationalize what we want, especially when what we want isn't in line with what we say we want. This is how we find ourselves doing things we're ashamed of: we deny to ourselves that we're capable of the unthinkable.

Trying to live an authentic life is just too difficult these days. We can create idealized personas online, not to mention completely false identities. Instead of trying to deal with the world we live in, we can invent our own. And even if we choose to live in real life, we can fake almost anything; we can erase the facial lines we've earned, shave off a bit of the nose, swell our lips, raise our eyebrows. We can create sculpted abs, leaner thighs, inflated boobs, and fuller butts. I mean, think about it: we all live in an age when "reality shows" aren't real at all and when the line between scripted and unscripted gets hazier by the day.

Today I saw a photograph of a 98-year-old woman who passed away on Monday. Isendler Before I read the accompanying text, I was already struck by her amazing face. I had no idea who she was but she looked so kind, yet so brave, and so profoundly wise. And as I stared into her eyes I thought: I want that face. I want to EARN that face. Then I discovered who she was -- and exactly how kind and brave and wise she was, and why her face revealed all of that.

This woman, Irena Sendler, saved 2,500 children from the Nazi Holocaust, smuggling them out of the Warsaw Ghetto. She was caught and tortured repeatedly yet refused to give up, and she never stopped her life's work. And despite all that she'd accomplished, she didn't like being called a hero because she always felt she'd not done enough.

I'll never measure up to the woman she was; that much about myself I already know. But tonight I sit here and think that while it's not wrong to desire to be a better, or at least different, version of myself, I need to be cautious, to be mindful about always wanting the change instantly. In real life, it takes time to develop, to grow, to become better, perhaps even to become our true self.

What I've learned through all this time, through all these many years, is that everything that's real takes time and effort. What's real can be painful, embarrassing, humiliating, and ugly. But there's also deeper beauty in the real. I want that real kind of beauty.

But I also know that deep inside lies that part of me who wants it now.

A BEAUTIFUL DREAM

When I was about 10 or 11 my friend Mayette turned me on to the wonders of makeup. We'd pore over her older sisters' fashion magazines and play with their pots of paint and brushes. I was hooked instantly. The first thing I did when I traveled to Japan as a summer exchange student at age 12 was spend a portion of my modest allowance on a startlingly thick, heavy issue of Vogue Nippon, which I read over and over and kept for years. And although I didn't wear makeup often or regularly, I built up a small collection and played with various looks, copying new trends I spotted in magazines, in front of my bedroom mirror whenever I was alone.

I've been in love with makeup ever since. I still don't wear much of it in real life although these days I have a much larger collection -- which I still play with in front of my mirror when I'm alone. I'm absolutely thrilled when my friends ask me to do their faces for special occasions; when I'm staring down at them with brush in hand I'm as intensely serious as if I were getting paid for it. Nothing makes me happier than seeing someone break out a dazzling smile at the sight of her own (pretty) face. I even cry when I watch television makeover shows (not the ones that involve plastic surgery); I can't help it even if I know it's precisely what the producers want me to do. Too many women spend too much time looking for what's wrong with themselves when what's right is staring at them straight in the face.

My theory is that makeup artists have the best job in the world: how wonderful would it be to say that you make people look and feel beautiful for a living? I mean, I already do it happily for free, being able to do something you do well is a gift. Getting paid for it as well would only be an honor.

Many, many years ago, almost as soon as I arrived in LA, I met my sister's friend, an aspiring makeup artist at the time. Since then she's built up her name and reputation in the industry through her tremendous talent, steady and consistent work, unyielding professionalism, and perhaps a few lucky breaks (though all well-earned). Although I haven't seen her for so many years, I phoned her to do a quick interview for PINOYExpat's beauty issue. Introducing Jocelyn Zayco, a woman I admire for living her dream -- and who does so because she never gave up on it.

UNEXPECTED LESSONS

WARNING: ADULTS ONLY!!!

I've always said you can learn something from someone; I truly believe that once we close our minds because of our preconceived notions and set beliefs, we're only shortchanging ourselves. As much as it often annoys and infuriates me, I endeavor to pay attention to how the "other side" argues their points. Sometimes it only serves to further strengthen my convictions, other times I get to see how I've become tunnel-visioned. At the very least my thinking becomes more rounded out, but more honed.

It's amazing what we can gather from the most unusual and unorthodox sources if we only pay attention; for instance, information for the latest "miracle" diet ingredient, hoodia, originated from South African Bushmen. On a more personal note, I once got a comprehensive carjacking lesson from a social worker and learned some of the best sexual tips and techniques for women from a gay man.

And on that same note, I've also learned so much from porn stars -- and not just the usual, more obvious and expected kind of information you might be thinking of. If you've come across my beauty blog, you'd probably guess that one of my fantasies is to become a busy makeup artist someday. And from whom did I learn how to do infallible and wilt-proof glam makeup? Yep. But just think about it: if this woman can do all she does in a day under the glare of hot, bright lights and still keep her makeup intact, don't you think she's got at least a few good secrets to share?

This is what she looks like before*.Asiabefore


AsiaafterAnd this is what she looks like after.Personally, I think she looks prettier without all that grease paint (naysayers might point out that she's only this beautiful because she's had two nose jobs, but I say how many of us would look as good if we had even more work than that done?). Still it doesn't matter what I think -- she didn't get to be so successful by being merely pretty, 'no?

*All photos from Asia Carrera's website.

HOW TO BE A PERFECT BEAUTY

When "supermodels" like Cindy Crawford and Tyra Banks confess to all of us that not even they look like themselves, some of us think they're merely being humble. There's no doubt these women -- just like all women who end up representing the biggest names in the cosmetic and fashion industries -- are truly beautiful. But the thing is this: the images we see of them on the pages of glossy magazines or in the flickering lights of our television sets are manipulated many times over. No one truly looks like that in person, no matter how many cosmetic or surgical procedures they undergo in order to try.

There's no doubt I love fashion and beauty, but I know that it's one thing to want to look good to feel good, and quite another to give in to self-hatred because we can't measure up to increasingly unreasonable standards. We all need to remember that of all the things we can do to improve ourselves, the physical is the most ephemeral and so it makes absolutely no sense to spend most of our time on something that we can't bank on for long. I think of it in the same way I do as buying a brand-new car: from the moment you drive it off the dealer's lot, it begins to lose its value. So we all have to find within ourselves what never fades and what can only get better: our hearts, minds, and character.

Anyway, the folks at Dove produced this short video to remind us that aspiring to resemble the fake images we see and envy only make us appear just as inauthentic and simulated. Not a good thing -- unless, of course, that's the look you're going for.


MAKEUP WHORE-D

I don't smoke, drink, do drugs, or gamble. I've smoked a total of two Benson & Hedges Ultralight Menthol sticks in my entire life (they gave me a headache), am allergic to alcohol (or at least that's the story I'm sticking to), tried pot a couple of times (made me feel paranoid), and can't play cards or mahjong to save my life.

Chocolate might have been my vice, but I gave it up (or at least the real kind) when I was diagnosed with diabetes last week. And so I thought I was now completely vice-free.

Until I went to the bathroom to get dressed just moments ago.Makeup1_1 I opened the top drawer to pick up my pot of lip balm, as I always do after I've cleansed and moisturized my face. I stared inside the drawer, trays chockful of foundation, powder, lipgloss, and other miscellaneous cosmetics and tools. I opened the second drawer and looked at the baskets of lipstick and lip pencils neatly stacked inside.

On top of the bathroom counter is a glazed ceramic vase meant for a pretty bouquet of flowers; inside are my long-handled makeup brushes instead (travel-sized ones are carefully wrapped in a leather roll stored in Drawer no. 2). On the floor is my large wheeled silver metal traincase full of eyeshadow, stored in trays organized by color family.

Inside the nearby closet is my smaller black metal traincase, jampacked with cheek colors -- powders, creams, gels, every single blush formulation in existence. On top of it is my faux-leather travel case, always ready for both short and long trips, its two trays full of all my basics and "must-haves" (it's already set for my upcoming trip to Manila in two weeks).

So I brought everything out, slid out the drawers, flung open the case trays, stared at my stash, and took a picture with my camphone (I was going to call a shrink but thought I'd bring evidence for our first session). I have to mention I'm not a pack rat, I clear out my makeup once a year to toss out anything old or that were simply bad purchases. By the way, please don't think I'm boasting or showing off -- after all, NO ONE brags about their vices. And this is my vice, I'm certain of it now.

Every season I can't wait for all the makeup lines to launch their newest collections.This might be difficult to believe, but I'm not indiscriminate; sometimes I sit out an entire season because I don't find it exciting enough or I already have something similar to what they're showing. But I hunt because I'm always in search of something better or genius: for instance, I have at least five different brands of eyelash curlers -- Shu's, Shiseido's, Kevyn's, Mally's, and even Japonesque's cute tweezer-looking one.

Just looking at me, you wouldn't suspect I'm a makeup whore; I don't wear a lot of it (or at least I don't look like I do). Once in a while I'll do a bit of a smoky eye when I meet up with friends and everyone will ask why I'm more "made up" than usual. I guess my skills are evident mostly when my boss tells me I have perfect skin (ha!) or that I look well rested when I really had only three hours of sleep the night before. Heck, sometimes I'm out in public and have absolutely nothing on my face.

I know it's sick and probably wrong, but I'll defend my vice to the bitter end. It's not killing me or hurting anyone else, after all. And if someone dares tell me it's a waste of my (hard earned) money, I'll ask that person how many cigarette packs, baggies of pot, or bottles of alcohol and liquor were purchased through the years, or how much was blown during last month's Vegas trip. At least I have something to show for it (my hoard, that's what).

And if I can't win that word war, I'll pull out my soft, fluffy brushes with a flourish and make her (or even him, if he's willing) look really pretty. Now what other vice can do that?

REAL WOMEN

Newton might spin around in his grave as I say this, but I've always thought of fashion as further proof of his third law of motion:

"For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction."

Bear with me here all you physics geeks out there: how else do you explain the dizzying movement of opposing fashion styles that come in and out of vogue, one after another? For instance, one season women can't get enough of towering, teetering, ankle-twisting stilettos; a few months later, we're told to put them away and slip into down-to-earth, sensible, and sure-footed flats. (By the way, note to all men reading this: now you know why we women need so many shoes.)

Dove_2I thought of Newton again the first time I saw Dove's Campaign for Real Beauty. You've probably seen the magazine ads and billboards out there: Six happy, naturally curvy women wearing nothing but their white undies, proclaiming "Real women have real curves." And I look at one or two of them and think, hey, that's what my body looks like. Brilliant.

And then just the other day, BewhoyouarebeautyI received my regular email update from one of my favorite makeup artists, Bobbi Brown. She's just launched a new campaign, Be Who You Are Beauty. Her mission statement begins: Beauty comes in all colors, shapes and sizes. It's a state of mind, a positive outlook and a way of living. It's about being who you are.

I mean, of course she then explains how looking one's best is not only simple but achievable -- as long as you know the right steps and use the right -- ehem -- products. And it's essentially the same with Dove; of course they want you to develop brand loyalty once they've gotten you to identify with their message. It's still business, after all.

The difference is I can live with their kind of message.

Consider this: everyday we're bombarded with advertising and marketing efforts from plastic surgeons and botox-wielding dermatologists (I was just telling my physician the other week that I can't seem to find a regular skin doctor who can simply treat my atopic dermatitis without trying to push all these other expensive treatments and products on me!). We see impossibly perfect women with perfect skin, hair, and bodies, and then we realize that perfection is mostly man-made. You can look like that, we begin to think, if you find the right doctor or specialist. And really, there's nothing wrong with helping Mother Nature along, after all.

And we can't seem to get away from images of teenage icons like Lindsay Lohan, Hilary Duff, and Nichole Richie -- all mere shadows of their former selves.Jalba_3 And who hasn't heard about how Jennifer Aniston lost 30 pounds in order to snag bigger and better roles -- why, that's practically Hollywood legend now. And following the footsteps of Linda "Terminator" Hamilton we have sleek, tough, buff babes like Jennifer Garner, Jessica Alba, and Hilary Swank, who worked out and dieted tenaciously in order to transform themselves into lean, fat-burning machines. OprahEven Oprah, whose weight has yo-yo'd precariously for years, is now at her slimmest, most glorious best.

You can do it, we're told. You can be the best you can be if you just keep working on it. Be disciplined, keep the faith, and stay the course. And this is all true.

But what about some of us who don't really want to put in so much work, time, and effort into looking perfect? Don't get me wrong: I've been inspired by Nikki and have been shedding pounds -- albeit slowly -- for the last couple of months. And I keep up good grooming habits and try to make the best of what I have: I schedule regular, though not insanely often, visits to my hairstylist, nail technician, and facialist.

I've learned my beauty lessons well: I know how to apply makeup subtly, but in a way to make the most of my features. I dress to play up my assets and hide the rest. And I keep up the self-affirmation: I remind myself that although my goal is to lose 30 pounds (hello there Jennifer!) and be physically fit and healthy, there are still many things about myself I like, even love. For instance, people tell me I have good skin, I really like my boobs (still passing that pencil test -- with flying colors -- even at my age!), and my hair looks the best it ever has. I smell awfully nice, too.

But for me -- personally -- there are only so many hours I'm willing to spend trying to be pretty. Not to mention, I already spend enough trying to look good; I can't afford to pay any more to look perfect. But I take my hat off to those who do -- it truly isn't easy doing all that. For instance, people often say it's easy for celebrities to look so fabulous because they have trainers and nutritionists. But really, if you think about it, they're still the ones putting in the work -- huffing and puffing in the gym or burning calories trying to exercise mind control and stay away from the cookies. They're not paying someone else to do the work for them.

Perhaps if my livelihood depended on looking good, it would be worth it to spend a third of my day doing all I could to look hot damn good. It would be part of the job description -- no different from how a tax accountant needs to keep on top of tax code changes.

But I don't. Who knows, one day I might decide to get a little nip here and tuck there or spend entire mornings in the gym. But for now, I'm just going to watch the bad carbs and try to stay off my ass, drink a lot of water, apply my sunscreen before I leave the house, and remove my makeup before going to bed. And spend the rest of my time reading, writing, gardening, working, cleaning, and cooking. I guess I'm just going to stay a real woman with real curves for a while; just going to keep it real.

Q&A: SUNSCREEN AND CREAMS

Katherine (no homepage) writes: I'm looking for a great night cream...or great facial creams in general. i'm 27/asian and just starting to get concerned with fine lines. what do you use or recommend?

I also got more information from Katherine via email. She has combination skin (oily t-zone and dry patches in other areas) and has a tendency to break out only if she uses the "wrong product." She would prefer a day cream with SPF, but has yet to find one that doesn't irritate her skin. Price isn't an important issue, but she doesn't want to waste her money either. I can completely identify with Katherine because although I generally have problem-free skin, I am sensitive to certain products (which burn my skin) and I definitely need sunscreen because I'm quite sun-sensitive and break out in rashes and hives when I'm not protected.

There are so many creams out there running from one end of the price spectrum to the other. And with cosmetics giant Estee Lauder infiltrating lower-end stores such as Kohl's, there are good buys everywhere.

My first suggestion to Katherine is to shop at stores with customer-friendly return policies, so she can get a refund if a product irritates her skin. PhilosophyNordstrom is famous in the industry for their no-questions-asked returns. Even Kohl's stands by its policies, and drugstores such as Rite-Aid will take cosmetics back as long as the customer presents the receipt. Here in the U.S. there really is no reason to use your face as an expensive lab experiment.

I'd like to tackle the subject of sunscreen first, since it's so important to wear one every day. We all need protection against both UVA and UVB rays; unfortunately, the Food & Drug Administration hasn't yet approved the sale and distribution of sunscreen with the ingredient Mexoryl -- which is the best ingredient out there to protect our skin against UVA radiation (the one that causes wrinkles).

But until that happens there are many products available that can protect us from UVB and block out some UVA rays -- look for lotions that contain the ingredients Oxybenzone, Titanium Dioxide or Parsol 1789 (also known as Avobenzone or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane). I'm not sure what's causing the irritation -- it could be she's previously used sunscreen that was too "heavy" or it could also be she's sensitive to the ingredient Avobenzone (but I really hope not, because it's tough against UVA).

Here is a list of sunscreen products I highly recommend she tries (please keep the receipt and buy only at retailers that will offer a full refund if you are not satisfied with your purchase):


  1. Neutrogena UVA/UVB Sunblock Lotion - Oil-free and fragrance-free. Neutrogena also claims it's sweat-proof and thus won't run into your eyes. It comes in SPF 30 and 45, and I've read many raves about this product from various beauty message boards I frequent, even from those with sensitive skin. About $8.50 for 4 oz. and available at various drugstores.

  2. Neutrogena Sensitive Skin Sunblock Lotion, 30 SPF - If your skin is really sensitive, I suspect this is for you. This claims to be a broad spectrum UVA/UVB product but without the chemical sunscreens. It's also oil-free. See previous item for price and store information.

  3. Peter Thomas Roth Ultra-Lite Oil-Free Sunblock SPF30 - I've been a fan of the PTR line since I broke out in adult acne for a brief period in my early 30s. Not only did it get my skin back to normal, but its lightening products also made my scars disappear. I've used this sunscreen for years and have never had any problems. About $25 for 4 oz. Available at Sephora and selected Nordstrom stores, as well as some higher-end beauty supply stores.

  4. Laboratoire Remède
    Translucent UV Coat SPF 30
    - This is an oil-free, slightly tinted sunscreen product containing Oxybenzone. It comes in three shades, although most people tend to buy the dark shade because it's not really dark. This product is so unbelievably light and feels barely-there, so I use this under makeup. $36 for 1 oz. Available at selected Nordstrom and Macy's stores, Sephora, and other stores that sell Bliss products.

  5. La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL Lait SPF 60 - This product is only available online or by mail order because it contains Mexoryl. This milky liquid is fragrance-free and goes on light, although a bit dewier than some other products. $45/100 ml. at www.zitomer.com. There's also a version formulated especially for the face: La Roche Posay - Anthelios XL Sun Fluide Extreme SPF 60. It's also a bit pricier -- $39/50 ml. at www.beautyhabit.com. Note: Beauty Habit will not accept returns on opened products. You will need to get return authorization by calling Zitomer's 888-number before returning any product (you might want to phone them before placing an order to clarify return policies).

Of course, there is the other option of using a day cream or moisturizer with an SPF. I'd suggest Katherine do this only once she's determined whether or not she's irritated by a specific sunscreen ingredient. Because if she is, and she uses an SPF moisturizing product that contains the irritant, then she's back to square one. In the summer I tend to use only my sunscreen directly under my makeup because my skin tends to be oilier during the season and I find I don't need the extra moisturizer -- my skin just clogs up otherwise.

Here are a few recommendations of moisturizers with SPF nonetheless. The best thing about this list is that the prices won't break the bank, and they all come highly recommended by various sources:


  1. Olay Complete All Day Moisture Lotion UV Defense SPF 15 - This product was recommended by The Skin Cancer Foundation as a safe and effective sunscreen, and I've read many rave reviews from users. It claims to protect against both UVA and UVB rays, and contains antioxidants Vitamin E plus C. Because of its light formulation, makeup easily goes over it. This also comes in a cream formula (jar) if you need something heavier. $6.99 for 4 oz. at www.drugstore.com. Also available at Wal-Mart, Walgreens, CVS Pharmacy, and Eckerd Drug

  2. Eucerin Extra Protective moisture lotion SPF 30 - Eucerin has always been a dermatologist's favorite (including all the ones I've ever been to); this one is highly recommended for dry, sensitive skin (which means it might be all Katherine needs for the summer instead of a heavier cream). It's fragrance free with broad spectrum protection. $8.49 for 4 oz. at www.drugstore.com or $11.99 for 4 oz. at www.dermstore.com. Also available at selected drugstores (note: might be available at Walgreens).

  3. Neutrogena Healthy Defense SPF 30 Daily Moisturizer - This claims to offer broad-spectrum daily protection and helps prevent the signs of premature aging. Contains Vitamin E and Pro-Vitamin B5 to help protect skin from environmental damage caused by free radicals. Lightweight and non-greasy, Non-comedogenic (won't clog pores), Hypo-allergenic, Fragrance-free, Non-irritating. Also available in Light, Medium and Untinted. $11.99/1.7 oz. at www.drugstore.com. Also available at Walgreens, CVS Pharmacy, and Rite Aid.

Lastly, I think Katherine should check out these two department store dermatologist-lines for their skincare lines, Rfincluding both day and night creams: Rodan + Fields, available at Marshall Fields and selected Nordstrom stores, and Philosophy, available at Sephora, Marshall Fields, and Nordstrom. They don't put all that extra stuff like heavy fragrances that can only irritate skin, they spend their money on the best possible ingredients instead of fancy packaging, and they stand behind their products.

Q&A: THE NOSE KNOWS

Both Rei and Bugsybee had a question (thanks ladies!) about fragrance. Rei's question has to do with detecting fragrance notes and Bugsybee wants to know how to select one for herself.

There is so much information about fragrance, but I'm going to try to keep this simple. Just a few facts that will help me answer their questions as completely as I can.

FOUR MAIN TYPES OF FRAGRANCE

You will usually see four general types of fragrance (excluding scented body creams and aftershave, for instance).

Perfume: this is the purest of all fragrance concentrations and contains the highest percentage of "juice" (or essential oils) -- which also makes it the most expensive. It contains approximately 20 to 40 percent of oils held in alcohol. To explain it simply, a perfume version of a fragrance is the truest version of it. If you want to spoil yourself or the person you are shopping for, this is what you must get!

Eau de parfum: I usually recommend fragrance shoppers to buy this type. Because it contains seven to 14 percent (some sources state 10 to 20 percent) fragrance oils, the scent will last -- and it's not quite as expensive as perfume.

Eau de toilette: contains only five to 10 percent fragrance oils. It was originally created to be splashed on and meant to refresh the body instantly. If you want this type to last longer, spray your hairbrush before using it; the oils in your hair and scalp will hold on to it more than if you just spritzed it on your pulse points.

Eau de cologne: This is the lightest form, containing only two to three percent. If you want this to last, it is highly recommended you layer your fragrance -- for instance, using a body wash or soap, followed by lotion or cream, in the same scent.

FRAGRANCE NOTES
Most fragrances are comprised of three levels: Top, middle, and base notes. The top notes are what you smell immediately after you spritz it on; they usually tend to be brighter scents such as citrusy and other fruity smells and last for about 10 to 15 minutes. The middle notes (or the "heart" of the fragrance) then develop, and tend to stick around for a while. Most of the time these are floral or spicy scents. Lastly, the base notes are the heaviest of all (musks and woody notes) and give the fragrance its depth and strength, or even its signature. This is what you normally smell from about 30 minutes after you first apply the fragrance to when it has just about faded, about four hours later.

Here are some examples of top, middle, and base notes:
Top - lemon, grapefruit, mandarin, bergamot, orange, pineapple
Middle - jasmine, lavender, ylang-ylang, freesia, peony, rose, white pepper,
Base - musk, sandalwood, cedarwood, teakwood, vetiver, amber

SELECTING A FRAGRANCE

Knowing a fragrance's notes helps me out all the time -- especially when I'm trying to buy a new scent either for myself or for someone else (which is tricky business, as we all know). So when I'm at the fragrance counter, I'll ask the sales associate for information about a fragrance's notes (if she's well trained and informed) or I'll just ask her to hand me the literature on it (if she's not).

For instance, I like scents that are sparkling, fresh, and clean. This explains why I'm drawn to fragrances that have citrus and/or mint. I also look for lighter floral middle notes like jasmine versus a heavier one like bulgarian rose. And lastly, I tend to prefer musk over amber, which I sometimes find too warm -- especially in the summer.

Let's take an example. Here's literature on a fragrance I picked out at random.
Notes: Tangerine, Plum, Cloves, Coriander, Carnation, Lily of the Valley, Rose, Myrrh, Opoponax (note: a sweet myrrh), Castoreum, Cedarwood, Sandalwood.

Right away I can tell this isn't my cup of tea: Everything about it, all the way from the top notes, is too warm and spicy, even heavy. This Oriental fragrance, as it turns out, happens to be Opium by Yves Saint Laurent -- which has always made me flee from the wearer, especially when applied too heavily (mom used to wear this when it first came out -- ugh). Anyway, even if I may not like this fragrance -- someone who wears, say, Calvin Klein's Obsession or Guerlain's Shalimar might.

Here was Bugsybee's question: When I smell something and I like it, I try it by dabbing some on my wrist (that's what they told me to do), walking around for a few minutes and coming back to decide (if the scent stays). My problem is this - when I use it the next day, iba na ang smell. It's not the scent that I like anymore. So what's the proper way to choose a scent that is "hiyang" to you or one that will smell nice or stay (I have some that smell nice but after a few hours, wala na)?

So although Bugsybee was told correctly to walk around the store for a while, she wasn't given complete information. When you test a fragrance, smell it immediately after you spray it, and then after 10 or 15 minutes to smell the heart of it, and then another 15 minutes (during the fragrance's dry-down). This will give you a much better idea of how much you like the fragrance. By the way, here's a great resource to help anyone find a fragrance they like: Sephora Fragrance Finder. I just found a new fragrance that I really think I might like -- when it finally arrives in the mail and my hunch about it was right, I'll post it in my Stuff sidebar.

As far as selecting a fragrance that will last, the answer lies in picking a type that has a highest concentration of oils. For instance, if you really love a scent -- it's your signature fragrance -- and you wear it all the time, you might consider investing in buying it in perfume form. If that's too expensive for your blood, try the eau de parfum version instead.

Lastly, here are other ways to make your scent last longer:

1. Layer your fragrance - I mentioned this earlier. Use the soap or body wash in the same scent, followed by the matching lotion or body cream. I do this all the time, and my fragrance lasts not only all day, but even up to when I wake up the next morning (important to know if you have a HOT date!). Here's something else I do, I apply a couple of drops of my fragrance mixed with water into my steam iron; this way, even my clothes are lightly scented.

2. Spray low, so the fragrance can rise. We're always told to apply fragrance on our pulse points -- on the wrist, behind the ear, crook of the arm and knee, base of the throat. But don't forget to spray your ankles -- it takes longer for the scent to dissipate and rise into the air.

Just a few final words here. A fragrance smells differently on different people; this has to do with one's body chemistry, type of skin, age, etc. So if you loved a scent on your ex, don't think you'll love it on your current partner. Or if you're anything like me when I was stupid, don't wear a fragrance just because you know your boyfriend or spouse loved it on someone else. You might regret it (and why would you want him to think of her when he's with you anyway?).

Try not to go overboard with fragrance: a little goes a long way. You don't want to apply so much that everyone in the room can smell you; only the ones you allow to get near you should be privy to your scent. That's the only way scent can be sexy.

July 2008

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Complete Archives

SOUNDTRACK

  • INCOGNITO - When Words Are Just Words

    When Words Are Just Words
    INCOGNITO: Tales from the Beach

    This is not your typical "tropical paradise" beach type of music, as the album title might suggest. Here's how Jean-Paul "Bluey" Maunick explains his inspiration for the group's most recent release: '""When I was a kid, my first taste of music came from the beaches of Mauritius," he says. "I spent a lot of time listening to the hotel bands, or the bands playing around the bonfires and cookouts. It's a small island, so there were beaches everywhere. I was always watching live musicians play. So for inspiration for this album, I went back to various beaches around the world - in Italy, Indonesia and elsewhere - and just let the music flow." And it sure does here, in Incognito's groovy blend of retro soul, funk, jazz, and dance. As always, the vocal power here amazes. Not only does Maysa grace us with her presence on four tracks, but Joy Rose, Tony Momrelle, and Imaani remind us why Incognito continues to remain such a powerful, inspirational force after all these years.

  • All Good Things
    THE WEEPIES: Hideaway

    Weepies_

    The Weepies, comprised of husband-and-wife Deb Talan and Steve Tannen, have been quite busy since their debut album came out in 2006 -- creating, playing, working with other artists, touring and getting married. I'm a fan of this folk duo's honest, touching music and lyrics, which can talk about pain and longing without dragging you down. When I first heard the song "All Good Things" it sounded familiar and I quickly realized I'd heard the Mandy Moore version first; I then discovered they had worked on her album. No diss to Mandy, but I like this version much, much better. I have a feeling you would, too.
  • Your Song
    LOVE PSYCHEDELICO: This Is Love Psychedelico

    Delico

    This is Love Psychedelico's (or more affectionately known to fans as Delico) first release outside of Asia -- and it's about time. The duo -- singer Kumi and guitarist Naoki -- formed the band about a decade ago and have been singing about love and peace ever since. Their music, a blend of '60s British Invasion and classic '70s rock, combined with mad Japanese-English lyrics, is cool, catchy, and highly infectious. I can't seem to get enough of them. To listen, click here.
  • Breathe
    LALAH HATHAWAY: Self Portrait

    LHselfportrait

    This is Lalah Hath- away's fifth album, but only the third that I've heard. From what I can hear for myself, this is her best yet. So many of the tracks here are strong and can stand alone -- in fact, rather than download each and every one, I went ahead and bought the entire CD. Nowadays, I do that only when I believe in the entire package, not just some of its parts. Donny's little girl must be making her dad proud: she may have inherited his velvet voice, but she has a style all her own -- and she only gets better, trust me on this. The first track "Let Go" has been attracting lots of positive buzz, but I can't stop listening to the next song, "Breathe." It makes me do just that.
  • Pump
    The B-52s: Funplex

    Funplex

    Has it really been 16 years since their last studio album (and almost 30 years since I was both stunned and seduced by "Rock Lobster")? I love the B-52s so much that I was almost equally thrilled and scared to hear they were coming out with a new album this Spring. Thrilled for obvious reasons; scared because I didn't know if they could still be relevant (they are in their '50s, after all). But as soon "Pump" burst out blazing, I knew they were back. As Strickland says: "It's loud, sexy rock and roll for your pleasure zones, with the beat pumped up to hot pink." Just the way I like it.
  • LIZZ WRIGHT - Speak Your Heart

    Speak Your Heart
    LIZZ WRIGHT: The Orchard

    Finally, finally it's here. Late last year I heard a full-length version of this single on -- of all places -- Facebook, and was dismayed to discover I had to wait for several months until the album was released. I've been a fan of Wright from the moment I first heard her voice; she has a way of tugging your heart that both lifts it and breaks it at the same time.

  • La La Means I Love You
    PHIL PERRY: The Classic Love Songs
    PperryThis is such a great tune that it's been covered and sampled time and time again -- unfortunately, not always well. I love this cover by Phil Perry; it kee